Auguste, London E8: ‘Some fleeting moments of greatness’ – restaurant review | Grace Dent on restaurants

TL;DR

Auguste, a new Italian restaurant in Hackney, opened three weeks ago and shows moments of culinary promise. The review notes its authentic Abruzzo influence but also points out inconsistencies and areas for growth.

Auguste, a newly opened Italian restaurant in Hackney, London E8, is drawing attention for its authentic Abruzzo-inspired small plates and lively atmosphere, despite some inconsistencies. The review highlights its brief but promising moments of culinary excellence, which matter as the venue seeks to establish itself in a competitive dining scene.

The restaurant, located in the former Papi space, has been transformed by owners chef Mike Bagnall and general manager Dylan Walters into a hip, Abruzzo-influenced spot featuring a menu centered on small plates like arrosticini skewers, cooked over a live fire. The venue, which opened three weeks ago, was packed on a Wednesday night, indicating strong initial interest. The menu includes regional specialties such as coppa stagionata, wild boar-stuffed morels, and various cured meats, complemented by low-intervention wines and casual service. Dishes like cappelletti in brodo and chicken saltimbocca received praise for their authenticity and quality, although some items, such as the rösti and desserts, were critiqued for lacking crispness or refinement. The restaurant’s atmosphere is vibrant, with no uniformed staff, and cocktails priced at around £5, adding to its trendy appeal. Despite moments of excellence, the review notes the meal felt more like a collection of ideas rather than a cohesive experience, with some dishes underwhelming and dessert options limited.

Why It Matters

This review matters because Auguste represents a new entrant in London’s competitive small plates scene, especially in Hackney, where authentic regional Italian cuisine is less common. The restaurant’s initial popularity suggests strong local interest, but its mixed execution highlights the challenges new establishments face in balancing authenticity, consistency, and atmosphere. For diners, it offers a glimpse of potential but also signals areas needing development for sustained success.

Canvas Wall Art Arrosticini Italian lamb skewers kebabs cooked brazier From Italian Photo Prints Realism Stretched & Framed Artworks Modern Wall Decor for Living Room Bedroom Office

Canvas Wall Art Arrosticini Italian lamb skewers kebabs cooked brazier From Italian Photo Prints Realism Stretched & Framed Artworks Modern Wall Decor for Living Room Bedroom Office

Size: 30x80cmx4 panel, total of 48"Wx36"H.

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As an affiliate, we earn on qualifying purchases.

Background

Auguste opened three weeks ago, taking over a space previously occupied by Papi, which was known for its European-influenced, irreverent style. The restaurant’s focus on Abruzzo cuisine aligns with a broader trend of regional Italian food gaining popularity in London. The chef, Mike Bagnall, has a reputation for quality, but the new venue’s early reviews suggest it is still finding its footing amid high expectations. The London dining scene remains highly competitive, with many establishments vying for attention through authenticity and atmosphere.

“Auguste shows some fleeting moments of greatness, but there’s plenty of room for improvement among the serious bits and a little clowning around.”

— the reviewer

“We want to bring authentic Abruzzo flavors to London, and create a lively, informal dining experience.”

— the chef, Mike Bagnall

Lunaria, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Organic, 750mL

Lunaria, Montepulciano d'Abruzzo Organic, 750mL

Origin: Italy

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What Remains Unclear

It is not yet clear whether Auguste will sustain its initial popularity or improve its consistency over time. The review reflects a snapshot shortly after opening, and further feedback from diners and critics will determine its long-term reputation.

Rectangle White Serving Tray (2-Pack) - 17.5" Disposable Serving Platter for Appetizer, Fruits & Serving Dishes | Perfect Plastic Tray for Party Serveware

Rectangle White Serving Tray (2-Pack) – 17.5" Disposable Serving Platter for Appetizer, Fruits & Serving Dishes | Perfect Plastic Tray for Party Serveware

CLASSIC ELEGANCE: This Organic white tray features a sleek, modern design ideal for everyday use or special occasions,…

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What’s Next

The restaurant is expected to refine its menu and service based on initial feedback. Follow-up reviews and customer responses over the coming months will reveal whether Auguste can translate fleeting moments of greatness into lasting success.

Authentic Italian Desserts: 75 Traditional Favorites Made Easy

Authentic Italian Desserts: 75 Traditional Favorites Made Easy

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Key Questions

What dishes are the restaurant best known for?

The arrosticini skewers, especially the salt marsh lamb, and the chicken saltimbocca are highlighted as standout dishes in the review.

Is Auguste suitable for casual dining?

Yes, the atmosphere is lively and informal, with casual service, no uniforms, and affordable cocktails, making it suitable for relaxed dining experiences.

What are the main regional influences on the menu?

The menu is heavily inspired by Abruzzo, featuring regional specialties like wild boar-stuffed morels and coppa stagionata.

Has the restaurant received any awards or recognition yet?

As a recent opening, it has not yet received formal awards but is gaining attention through early reviews and customer interest.

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