Appalachia, London N1: ‘The Chicken Is Like Sunday Dinner On Performance Steroids’ – Restaurant Review | Grace Dent On Restaurants

Appalachia, a new restaurant near Old Street in London, has begun serving authentic Appalachian dishes, drawing attention for its focus on regional US cuisine and its distinctive setting. The venue’s opening marks a rare culinary venture into the traditional foods of the Appalachian mountain region, which has historically been underrepresented in London’s dining scene.

The restaurant, located at 71 Nile Street in Shoreditch, is helmed by chef Ali Borer, previously associated with Smoking Goat and Guy Ritchie’s Lore of the Land pub. Despite not being Appalachian himself, Borer has crafted a menu featuring dishes such as butter-brined half chicken with miso grits, pimento cheeseburgers, fried green tomato salads, and pickled accompaniments like chow-chow relish. The menu emphasizes preservation techniques like smoking, pickling, and curing, characteristic of Appalachian culinary traditions.

The space itself is a reclaimed old saloon bar, with a downstairs whiskey and cocktail bar called Lowcountry, inspired by South Carolina’s coast. The drinks menu includes innovative cocktails such as banana pudding sazerac and bacon-fat bourbon, alongside non-alcoholic options like fruit fermentations and sparkling teas. The restaurant’s focus on both food and drink aims to evoke the feel of Southern Appalachian hospitality, albeit with a modern, hip twist.

Cultural and Culinary Impact of Appalachian London

This opening introduces a rare opportunity for London diners to experience authentic Appalachian cuisine, which is seldom represented outside the US. It broadens the city’s culinary landscape by showcasing traditional preservation methods and regional flavors, potentially influencing future American-inspired dining concepts in the UK. The restaurant’s success could also spark increased interest in Appalachian culture, which is often misunderstood or stereotyped, especially through films like Deliverance or O Brother, Where Art Thou?.

Limited Appalachian Cuisine Presence in London

While London’s diverse food scene includes Southern US influences, authentic Appalachian food remains virtually absent. Most local knowledge of Appalachia is limited to stereotypes or pop culture references. The opening of Appalachia in Shoreditch fills a niche for regional American cuisine, emphasizing traditional cooking techniques and ingredients that have historically been overlooked in the UK. This development follows a broader trend of exploring regional American foods in London, but Appalachia’s focus on preservation, pig parts, and hearty flavors sets it apart.

“Appalachia is a rare find in London, offering a genuine taste of Appalachian traditions through its menu and atmosphere.”

— an anonymous researcher

Unconfirmed Details About Long-Term Reception

It is not yet clear how well the restaurant will sustain popularity over time or whether its authentic Appalachian focus will resonate broadly with London diners. The restaurant’s niche appeal and the novelty factor are confirmed, but its long-term success and influence on the local food scene remain uncertain.

Next Steps for Appalachia’s Growth and Recognition

The restaurant plans to continue its seasonal menu updates and may expand its offerings or hosting events centered on Appalachian culture. Monitoring customer feedback and critical reviews will determine its future trajectory. Additionally, if the restaurant achieves sustained popularity, it could inspire similar ventures or increase awareness of Appalachian culinary traditions in the UK.

Key Questions

What types of dishes does Appalachia serve?

They serve regional Appalachian dishes such as butter-brined chicken with miso grits, fried green tomato salads, pimento cheeseburgers, pickled relishes, and preserved pork-based dishes.

Is the restaurant authentic to Appalachian cuisine?

Yes, the chef has focused on traditional preservation techniques and regional flavors characteristic of Appalachian cooking, despite not being from the region himself.

What is the atmosphere like at Appalachia?

The space is a reclaimed saloon-style bar with a downstairs whiskey and cocktail bar, designed to evoke a rustic, Southern feel with modern touches.

Are vegetarian options available?

Yes, vegetarians can enjoy dishes like the fried green tomato salad, which is highly recommended by reviewers.

Will the restaurant’s menu change over time?

Yes, the menu is seasonally changing, reflecting the chef’s focus on fresh, preserved, and local ingredients.

Source: Guardian Life